LONG WALKS ON THE BEACH

Sometimes a walk on the beach can be too long. In our case, it was way too long. The first leg of the Te Araroa called "90 Mile Beach" is called that for good reason. Although the beach in reality is only 55 miles in length, it feels like forever.

The approach to 90 Mile Beach, the "Te Paki Stream Route" gave us a false sense of the challenge ahead of us. We trekked over tropical hills with a variety of 360 degree views that suddenly transported us next to the Cape Reigna lighthouse. The true starting point for the Te Araroa. 

After descending from the lighthouse in blustery winds, we crossed our first beach, which gave us quite a surprising eye opener. We learned very quickly that our maps needed to become our best friends. No more "I think it's this way." At the end of the beach we took a left instead of a right + found ourselves climbing mounds of what we now call "sand stair steppers" to farmland (we were supposed to be on another beach). We checked our maps + gps + discovered we had walked an hour + a half in the wrong direction. Not only that, but we were running out of water.

Both of us were feeling a bit nervous + shocked that we had already taken a wrong turn only a few hours into our hike, but we turned around + went back. Luckily, we found a stream + loaded up on water but the water didn't help our now sour moods. We ended up making it to camp after walking 19 miles.

Camp that night was interesting. A beautiful campsite called "twilight beach" welcomed us. We sat under a gazebo + ate a double dinner + washed our socks under a spicket. A few hikers came in later that night, a Ukrainian couple that lives in Auckland + twins from Connecticut. Nightfall came + we fell asleep only to be woken up by a rattling of trash. Sure enough possums were getting into people's food so the only option was to grab the broom in the gazebo + run after them. Two hours later the possums gave up.

The next day we were ready to get to 90 Mile Beach. When we started the hike for the day we were cruising. Feeling a great amount of energy. There were wonderful views of the turquoise ocean + lush green hills. Then we approached the flights of stairs down to the beach, it really was beautiful. It was a satisfying feeling to begin. 

From there on, not much excitement. From left to right: sand dune, beach, ocean. We saw dead birds, puffer fish, a shark + a giant sperm whale. That whale didn't smell too fresh. It became mentally difficult to focus + push on. 

One thing that really lifted our spirits was a campsite in Hukatere called Utea Park. Utea park was a small complex with multiple shelters and tent sites owned by a lovely couple who kept the whole thing off the grid + even off the internet. Just word of mouth kept this place going + they had no plans in changing that.

After Hukatere we pushed on to where we are now, Ahipara, a safe haven from the beach but just the beginning of the difficult Herikino forest. Here we find rest, food + warm beds for a proper recover that is well deserved + needed at the start of our journey.

'til next time,

Marina + Devon